经济学人306:意大利美食天堂

　　Business
商业报道
Eataly
意大利美食天堂
Let them eat truffles
请他们吃松露巧克力糖
Italian food for the discerning—and loaded
意大利美食专为识货的行家打造
FOR cognoscenti, the height of Italian taste these days is not Prada or Maserati, but a food market called Eataly.
对《鉴赏家》这本杂志而言，近日来意大利品味的高度不再是普拉达或玛莎拉蒂，而是一个名为Eataly的美食超市。
Fruit and vegetables are piled artfully in barrows and crates².
水果和蔬菜有序又极具艺术气息地摆放在手推车和板条箱上，
Cornucopias³ of pastas and pestos and peperoncini lie on shelves.
架子上是满满的通心粉、香蒜沙司和辣椒酱。
2_副本.jpgGroups of little tables tempt⁴ shoppers to stop and sample the salamis, or some of the eye-wateringly expensive truffles for which its founder's home town ofAlba, inPiedmont, is famous.
一张张的小桌子吸引着消费者驻足品尝意大利腊肠以及让人垂涎三尺的松露巧克力糖，后者不仅仅昂贵，也是该公司缔造者的故乡—位于皮埃蒙特的阿尔巴—著名的特产。
Oscar Farinetti set up the first Eataly in 2007, in an old vermouth warehouse⁵ in the Lingotto district of Turin.
2007年奥斯卡·法立内迪在都灵的林格托一家破旧的苦艾酒仓库建立首家Eataly。
His 21st is due to open on December 2nd inChicago.
他的第21家分店将于12月2日在芝加哥正式运营。
When Eataly came toManhattanin 2010, the media were still reporting queues around the block two weeks later.
2010年，当Eataly进入曼哈顿两周后，媒体依然在竞相报道依然包围着该美食城的消费者队伍。
Perhaps one of Mr Farinetti's American partners—Mario Batali, a well-knownNew Yorkchef—had something to do with that.
或许这与法立内迪的美国合伙人之一的马利欧·巴塔利这位著名的纽约大厨有关。
But inTokyotoo, after a slow start, people have taken Eataly to their hearts and wallets.
然而在东京，渐渐地，Eataly走进了人们的心里，人们甘愿掏钱品尝意大利美食。
Mr Farinetti is a serial⁶ entrepreneur who had the good sense to sell his previous electrical-retailing business before the bottom fell out of it, and switch to a more promising⁷ sector⁸.
法立内迪曾多次创业，他有敏锐的商业嗅觉，之前他经营电器零售业务。在这项业务坠入谷底前，他将所有业务转向更有潜力的行业。
But he is also a fully¹ paid-up member of the Slow Food movement founded by Carlo Petrini, his friend and fellow Piedmontese.
然而他也是慢食运动的正式会员，这一运动是他皮埃蒙特的朋友卡勒·佩特里尼倡导的。
Under Mr Petrini's guidance Eataly stocks the produce of several small firms, such as Gragnano durum-wheat pasta, wines from Piedmont and theVenetoand oil from westernLiguria.
在佩特里尼的指导下，Eataly采购许多小公司的产品，比如格拉南诺的硬质小麦通心粉，皮埃蒙特和威尼托的酒以及西部利古利亚的食用油。
Information cards tell shoppers who produced what and how.
产品的信息卡上写着产品品名、生产者及生产过程，消费者一看就知道。
The idea, says Mr Farinetti, is not just selling food but “increasing the percentage of people who eat with awareness⁹, choosing high-quality products and paying special attention to the source and processing of raw materials.”
法立内迪说，“这个主意不仅仅只是出售商品，而是让更多的消费者有意识地购买食物，挑选高质量的产品，更加关注食品原材料的产地和加工过程。”
It works.
这确实有效。
Turnover¹⁰ this year is likely to be 300m, up by 30% from 2012, thanks to the opening of new shops.
由于新店开张，今年的营业额有望达到3亿欧元，较2012年上涨30%。
More are planned by 2017, acrossAmericaand inLondonandParis.
截止2017年，更多的分店将会在美国各地、伦敦及巴黎开张。
Sales have risen in existing stores, too, by 4%-plus inItaly, 5% inNew Yorkand 10% inJapan.
已开张的份店的销售额也都在上涨，意大利涨幅超过4个百分点，纽约5个百分点，日本10个百分点。
Earnings¹¹ before interest, tax, depreciation¹² and amortisation are almost 20% of revenue inNew Yorkand 15% inTurin.
除去息税摊销折旧前的收益，纽约的几乎占总收益的20%，都灵的占15%。
Eataly provides its customers with gorgeous surroundings—less combative¹³ than at Harrods in London, less oppressively wholesome¹⁴ than at Whole Foods Markets, an American chain—in which they might imagine Gianmaria and Francesca weeding the tomato plants or treading the grapes.
Eataly为其消费者营造极好的消费环境—不像伦敦的哈罗兹百货公司那般斗志昂扬，也不如美国连锁全食市场那样琳琅满目目不暇接，在那儿人们都可能想象Gianmaria 和Francesca正在为番茄苗除草或者正在踩葡萄出汁。
Mr Farinetti is selling them a seductive image ofItalyitself.
法立内迪向其消费者营销的实际上是意大利这个意象所代表的国家的魅力。

1 fully   

adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地

参考例句：

• The doctor asked me to breathe in,then to breathe out fully.医生让我先吸气，然后全部呼出。
• They soon became fully integrated into the local community.他们很快就完全融入了当地人的圈子。

2 crates   

n. 板条箱, 篓子, 旧汽车 vt. 装进纸条箱

参考例句：

• We were using crates as seats. 我们用大木箱作为座位。
• Thousands of crates compacted in a warehouse. 数以千计的板条箱堆放在仓库里。

3 cornucopias   

n.丰饶角（象征丰饶的羊角，角内呈现满溢的鲜花、水果等）( cornucopia的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• Cornucopias are hung on Christmas trees. 圣诞树上挂着丰饶角。 来自《简明英汉词典》

4 tempt   

vt.引诱，勾引，吸引，引起…的兴趣

参考例句：

• Nothing could tempt him to such a course of action.什么都不能诱使他去那样做。
• The fact that she had become wealthy did not tempt her to alter her frugal way of life.她有钱了，可这丝毫没能让她改变节俭的生活习惯。

5 warehouse   

n.仓库；vt.存入仓库

参考例句：

• We freighted the goods to the warehouse by truck.我们用卡车把货物运到仓库。
• The manager wants to clear off the old stocks in the warehouse.经理想把仓库里积压的存货处理掉。

6 serial   

n.连本影片，连本电视节目；adj.连续的

参考例句：

• A new serial is starting on television tonight.今晚电视开播一部新的电视连续剧。
• Can you account for the serial failures in our experiment?你能解释我们实验屡屡失败的原因吗？

7 promising   

adj.有希望的，有前途的

参考例句：

• The results of the experiments are very promising.实验的结果充满了希望。
• We're trying to bring along one or two promising young swimmers.我们正设法培养出一两名有前途的年轻游泳选手。

8 sector   

n.部门，部分；防御地段，防区；扇形

参考例句：

• The export sector will aid the economic recovery. 出口产业将促进经济复苏。
• The enemy have attacked the British sector.敌人已进攻英国防区。

9 awareness   

n.意识，觉悟，懂事，明智

参考例句：

• There is a general awareness that smoking is harmful.人们普遍认识到吸烟有害健康。
• Environmental awareness has increased over the years.这些年来人们的环境意识增强了。

10 turnover   

n.人员流动率，人事变动率；营业额，成交量

参考例句：

• The store greatly reduced the prices to make a quick turnover.这家商店实行大减价以迅速周转资金。
• Our turnover actually increased last year.去年我们的营业额竟然增加了。

11 earnings   

n.工资收人；利润，利益，所得

参考例句：

• That old man lives on the earnings of his daughter.那个老人靠他女儿的收入维持生活。
• Last year there was a 20% decrease in his earnings.去年他的收入减少了20%。

12 depreciation   

n.价值低落，贬值，蔑视，贬低

参考例句：

• She can't bear the depreciation of the enemy.她受不了敌人的蹂躏。
• They wrote off 500 for depreciation of machinery.他们注销了500镑作为机器折旧费。

13 combative   

adj.好战的；好斗的

参考例句：

• Mr. Obama has recently adopted a more combative tone.奥巴马总统近来采取了一种更有战斗性的语调。
• She believes that women are at least as combative as are.她相信女性至少和男性一样好斗。

14 wholesome   

adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的

参考例句：

• In actual fact the things I like doing are mostly wholesome.实际上我喜欢做的事大都是有助于增进身体健康的。
• It is not wholesome to eat without washing your hands.不洗手吃饭是不卫生的。