英国卫报：Gap是如何迷失自己的？(1)（在线收听）

　　Shrinking the Gap: how the clothing brand lost its way

　　缩水的Gap：这个品牌是如何迷失方向的

　　Bring to mind, if you will, Gap’s classic logo hoodie.

　　如果你愿意，想想Gap的经典带logo的卫衣。

　　You know the one: three bold letters arranged in an arch across the chest.

　　你知道的：三个粗体字母在胸前呈拱形排列。

　　It was everywhere in the 1990s and 00s, sold in a rainbow of saturated colours.

　　在20世纪90年代和00年代，它到处都是，以彩虹般的饱和颜色出售。

　　This sweatshirt didn’t signal a taste for fashion so much as a desire for comfort at a reasonable price.

　　这件运动衫与其说是对时尚的品味，不如说是对合理价格舒适的渴望。

　　It was like the air we breathed, or the muzak floating around as we prowled the mall, ever-present and hardly worth remarking upon.

　　这就像我们呼吸的空气，或者我们逛商场时的音乐，无时无刻不在，几乎不值得一提。

　　Over the years, the sweatshirt faded out of view, until, in 2020, an odd thing happened: it suddenly became a hot fashion item at the hands of gen Z.

　　多年来，运动衫逐渐淡出人们的视线，直到2020年，一件奇怪的事情发生了：它突然成为Z世代手中的热门时尚单品。

　　On Instagram and TikTok, stylish young influencers started posting photos and videos of themselves wearing Gap hoodies.

　　在Instagram和TikTok上，时尚的年轻网红开始上传自己穿Gap卫衣的照片和视频。

　　Suddenly these hoodies looked rather hip and cool.

　　突然之间，这些卫衣看起来相当时髦和酷。

　　The YouTube star Emma Chamberlain posted a series of photos of herself on Instagram, her expression oscillating between detached, sleepy, and slightly mournful, as she stood next to a pool wearing white bikini bottoms and a navy Gap logo hoodie.

　　YouTube明星艾玛·张伯伦在Instagram上发布了一组自己的照片，她身穿白色比基尼下装和海军蓝Gap标志卫衣，站在泳池边，表情时而冷漠，时而困倦，时而略显哀伤。

　　The post received more than 2.4 million likes.

　　该帖子获得了超过240万个赞。

　　Over the next few months, numerous influencers incorporated the sweatshirt into their outfits on social media.

　　在接下来的几个月里，许多有影响力的人在社交媒体上把这件运动衫融入了他们的服装中。

　　Barbara Kristoffersen, a Danish influencer with almost 748,000 followers on Instagram, wore a brown Gap hoodie with wide-leg brown pants and a matching Louis Vuitton handbag.

　　在Instagram上拥有近74.8万粉丝的丹麦网红芭芭拉·克里斯托弗森穿着一件棕色Gap连帽衫，搭配棕色阔腿裤和一个与之相配的路易威登手袋。

　　The UK-based Lucy Page, with 12,400 followers on Instagram, wore it with cow-print pants and chunky sneakers.

　　英国的露西·佩奇在Instagram上有12400名粉丝，她穿着gap搭配穿着牛仔印花裤子和厚底运动鞋。

　　“I wish I could tell my younger self that she’ll be back to wearing GAP hoodies in the future,” Page wrote on Instagram.

　　佩奇在Instagram上写道：“我希望我能告诉年轻时的自己，她将来还会穿Gap卫衣。”

　　Soon enough, TikTok’s amateur fashion commentators were declaring the Gap logo hoodie a full-on trend.

　　很快，TikTok的业余时尚评论员就宣布Gap卫衣是一种全面的潮流。

　　What happens on fashion TikTok tends to be fleeting, but sometimes these trends are signs of broader shifts in the culture.

　　TikTok上发生的事情往往是转瞬即逝的，但有时这些趋势是文化发生更广泛转变的迹象。

　　Natalie Langhorne, who posts fashion-related videos on TikTok, told me that conditions were prime for a Gap comeback.

　　在TikTok上发布时尚相关视频的娜塔莉·朗霍恩告诉我，Gap复出的条件非常有利。

　　Young shoppers were going wild for logo-heavy clothes from brands like Nike, Gucci and Louis Vuitton, and, chronically nostalgic for the recent past, they were adopting “Y2K fashion” in droves.

　　年轻的购物者疯狂地购买耐克、古驰和路易威登等品牌带有品牌logo的服装，他们长期怀念过去，成群结队地拥上“Y2K时尚”。（注：Y2K指“千禧年”，Y2K风格则诞生于1990年代初至二十一世纪初，代表性单品包括低腰牛仔裤、水钻T恤和Juicy Couture运动服。）

　　“Gap literally fits all of that criteria,” said Langhorne, who is 24 and lives in Philadelphia.

　　住在费城的24岁的朗霍恩说：“Gap符合所有这些标准。”