访谈录 2008-11-21&11-23 “古着”风愈刮愈烈，回看50年代时尚潮

Julie Chen: Of the style of 1950s is one of extremes, conservative at one hand and glamorous¹ on the other. Joining us now Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of the museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology and Joe Warren of the Warren-Tricomi Studio. Good morning to you both.

Valerie Steele and Joe Warren: Good morning.

Julie Chen: Valerie, let me begin with you by bringing out our first model (Yeah) which is what a mum looked like in the 50s. Tell me what was going on historically that would influence the fashions that we saw then.

Valerie Steele: This is the cold-war period, so it s conservative, conformist, but it s also the revival² of the French Haute Couture. So there is a lot of elegance³ and glamour⁴.

Chen: And Joe looking at her hair and her makeup⁵, those red red lips, tell me.

Joe Warren: well, the red lips were, everybody wears red lips , eyebrows⁶ are very prominent, everybody penciled them in or they shaved them. When it came to hair, it was really influenced by Hollywood. You have famous brunettes Elizabeth Tyler Audrey Hepburn, think about the most famous blond who is Marilyn Monroe on a cover of Playboys, she became blond and bloomed into the biggest star of all. And then of course with the hair color who can else you remember but Louise Obal and **. And she really made the  statement . But it was all influenced by Hollywood, the hair. And this is what we call the plural⁷ cut

Chen: Very glamorous, it looks so beautiful.

Valerie Steele: and look at that waist, it s a real hour-glass shape. That s Dior’s look.

Chen: They were so skinny then too. OK. Thank you. Let s bring out our next look which is what a father figure looked like in the 50s. well, a pretty hip⁸ father.

Valerie Steele: Yes, The hip and casual father. If you imagine him going to work, he’d be the man in the great flannel⁹ suit. But they’ve styled him as if he were going to an outdoor barbecue in the backyard and suburbia .

Chen: And Joe he has a little bit of shadow on his face. Is that...

Joe Warren: A little bit, but no, most man clean shaven. But I think he is a little more reminiscent of Paul Newman. You knew the brooding actor; you know you had Marlon Brando. It really was a time when men become more emotional. You know, it really said in the way they looked. (yes)

Valerie Steele : You have to remember too, though, because of the conformity¹⁰ there was once a men’s clothing advertisement that said" Dress right, you can’t afford not to. " You know, people were watching you, in every pageant¹¹... judging.

Chen: thank you. Let me bring out the younger look, what the young kids were wearing in the 50s. First we have what, maybe a teenage girl looked like. This I recognize a lot. Talk to us about this look, Valerie.

Valerie Steele: Well she is the bobbysoxer . You notice the little bobbysocks instead of nylon stockings. The saddle shoes that sort of sweeping¹² skirt, cute little sweater. It s a very girlish look and it s a teenage look. This is really important, so not dressing¹³ like the mom but having her own style.

Chen: Joe, everyone has ponytails back then.

Joe: Ponytails, pigtails, you know the older women were setting their hair. And the younger women were trying to do something different, so it s a little bit more casual, just pulled up, easy going, the makeup was easy, clean, you know, not too much. The eyebrows were an accent, the lips were always red, not too shiny.

Chen: Yeah, cuz she’s younger. Ok, now let’s bring out her counterpart. A teenage boy,in a look that he may have had in 1950s.

Greaster!

Valerie Steele: Yeah, this is the rebel look. Absolutely rebel without a cause. The blue jeans, the T-shirt, all Marlon Brando. The black leather jacket all on James Dean, the Marlon The Converse¹⁴ sneakers. This is not the prep.py  look. (no, not at all)This is the bad boy look.

Chen: Now, Joe would you say that the teenager of 1950s was the original metro-sexual  since they put in hair products back then.

Joe: Yeah, you know, that s when the pompadour came very popular, it was called the quaff¹⁵ . you know, but I think the person that influenced that most was Elvis Presley. You know, in really rock and roll looking. They were rebels, James Dean, I mean, it really reminiscent of what they looked like. 

Chen: Yeah, We have one final look to bring out. And talk to me about what this model represents. Look, she glamorous evening look. Is this only Hollywood starlet?

Valerie Steele: no, this is a mixture of Hollywood and Paris Haute Couture. But it’s a look that ordinary American women copy that at all price point. So it’s a very couturiere looking dress. Lots of dress maker¹⁶ details and a little mink¹⁷ stole, that was what everyone was inspiring to.

Chen: and Joe, just the final seconds.

Joe: This is Audrey Herpun at her finest moment. You know, just gorgeous , glamorous, Billie Holiday. I mean it really was shorter and all set of all pieces . And she had a clip-on belt though .

Chen: I love that, looks so good. accessorize  .

Chen: Valerie Steele and Joe Warren, thank you both. We’d like to say what comes around goes around for providing us with these beautiful vintage pieces. :

1 glamorous   

adj.富有魅力的；美丽动人的；令人向往的

参考例句：

• The south coast is less glamorous but full of clean and attractive hotels.南海岸魅力稍逊，但却有很多干净漂亮的宾馆。
• It is hard work and not a glamorous job as portrayed by the media.这是份苦差，并非像媒体描绘的那般令人向往。

2 revival   

n.复兴，复苏，（精力、活力等的）重振

参考例句：

• The period saw a great revival in the wine trade.这一时期葡萄酒业出现了很大的复苏。
• He claimed the housing market was showing signs of a revival.他指出房地产市场正出现复苏的迹象。

3 elegance   

n.优雅；优美，雅致；精致，巧妙

参考例句：

• The furnishings in the room imparted an air of elegance.这个房间的家具带给这房间一种优雅的气氛。
• John has been known for his sartorial elegance.约翰因为衣着讲究而出名。

4 glamour   

n.魔力，魅力；vt.迷住

参考例句：

• Foreign travel has lost its glamour for her.到国外旅行对她已失去吸引力了。
• The moonlight cast a glamour over the scene.月光给景色增添了魅力。

5 makeup   

n.组织；性格；化装品

参考例句：

• Those who failed the exam take a makeup exam.这次考试不及格的人必须参加补考。
• Do you think her beauty could makeup for her stupidity?你认为她的美丽能弥补她的愚蠢吗？

6 eyebrows   

眉毛( eyebrow的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• Eyebrows stop sweat from coming down into the eyes. 眉毛挡住汗水使其不能流进眼睛。
• His eyebrows project noticeably. 他的眉毛特别突出。

7 plural   

n.复数；复数形式；adj.复数的

参考例句：

• Most plural nouns in English end in's '.英语的复数名词多以s结尾。
• Here you should use plural pronoun.这里你应该用复数代词。

8 hip   

n.臀部，髋；屋脊

参考例句：

• The thigh bone is connected to the hip bone.股骨连着髋骨。
• The new coats blouse gracefully above the hip line.新外套在臀围线上优美地打着褶皱。

9 flannel   

n.法兰绒；法兰绒衣服

参考例句：

• She always wears a grey flannel trousers.她总是穿一条灰色法兰绒长裤。
• She was looking luscious in a flannel shirt.她穿着法兰绒裙子，看上去楚楚动人。

10 conformity   

n.一致，遵从，顺从

参考例句：

• Was his action in conformity with the law?他的行动是否合法？
• The plan was made in conformity with his views.计划仍按他的意见制定。

11 pageant   

n.壮观的游行；露天历史剧

参考例句：

• Our pageant represented scenes from history.我们的露天历史剧上演一幕幕的历史事件。
• The inauguration ceremony of the new President was a splendid pageant.新主席的就职典礼的开始是极其壮观的。

12 sweeping   

adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的

参考例句：

• The citizens voted for sweeping reforms.公民投票支持全面的改革。
• Can you hear the wind sweeping through the branches?你能听到风掠过树枝的声音吗？

13 dressing   

n.(食物)调料；包扎伤口的用品，敷料

参考例句：

• Don't spend such a lot of time in dressing yourself.别花那么多时间来打扮自己。
• The children enjoy dressing up in mother's old clothes.孩子们喜欢穿上妈妈旧时的衣服玩。

14 converse   

vi.谈话，谈天，闲聊；adv.相反的，相反

参考例句：

• He can converse in three languages.他可以用3种语言谈话。
• I wanted to appear friendly and approachable but I think I gave the converse impression.我想显得友好、平易近人些,却发觉给人的印象恰恰相反。

15 quaff   

v.一饮而尽；痛饮

参考例句：

• We quaffed wine last night.我们昨晚畅饮了一次酒。
• He's quaffed many a glass of champagne in his time.他年轻时曾经开怀畅饮过不少香槟美酒。

16 maker   

n.制造者，制造商

参考例句：

• He is a trouble maker，You must be distant with him.他是个捣蛋鬼，你不要跟他在一起。
• A cabinet maker must be a master craftsman.家具木工必须是技艺高超的手艺人。

17 mink   

n.貂，貂皮

参考例句：

• She was wearing a blue dress and a mink coat.她穿着一身蓝色的套装和一件貂皮大衣。
• He started a mink ranch and made a fortune in five years. 他开了个水貂养殖场，五年之内就赚了不少钱。