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网络时代消费新趋势 体验更奢侈

时间:2016-06-12 00:22来源:互联网 提供网友:mapleleaf   字体: [ ]
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 Until recently, I thought Snapchat was an app used primarily by tweens and teenagers to send each other silly pictures. No longer. This week, I interviewed Frederic Cumenal, chief executive of Tiffany & Co, at a Financial Times luxury summit in San Francisco.

直到不久以前,我还一直认为Snapchat是一款主要是20几岁和十几岁年轻人用来互相发送愚蠢图片的应用软件。现在我不再这么认为了。上周,我在英国《金融时报》在旧金山主办的一次奢侈品峰会上采访了蒂芙尼(Tiffany & Co)首席执行官弗雷德里克?科莫纳尔(Frederic Cumenal)。
During our conversation, Cumenal revealed that Tiffany had recently created a sparkly Snapchat “filter” that communicates the dazzle of a diamond to anyone with a mobile phone. It even allows would-be purchasers to virtually “try on” the rings, without ever needing to go into one of those reverentially hushed Tiffany stores.
在我们谈话期间,科莫纳尔透露,蒂芙尼最近开发了一款闪闪发光的Snapchat“过滤器”,把钻石的璀璨光芒传递到任何拥有手机的人。它甚至允许潜在购买者虚拟“试戴”戒指,而不需要进入那些安静得令人惶恐不安的蒂芙尼门店。
Is this a good idea? That is the big question — actually, the $222bn question, if we go by the sector1’s annual sales — hanging over the luxury goods world today. One of the reasons companies such as Tiffany are creating Snapchat filters is that they are keen to catch the cyber buzz — and appeal to “millennials”.
这是个好主意吗?这是个大问题,实际上,是一个价值2220亿美元的问题——如果我们根据如今奢侈品行业的年销售额计算的话。蒂芙尼等公司创建Snapchat过滤器的一个原因在于,它们希望在网上引发热议,吸引“千禧一代”。
Another factor is that the luxury sector is under pressure to do something — anything — to persuade sceptical investors2 that it can continue to grow, because, right now, it seems to be at an inflection point. In the decade leading up to the financial crisis of 2007-08, rich consumers in the west gobbled up luxury goods amid the credit boom. Then, when the slowdown hit, cash-rich consumers in places such as China, Russia and Brazil jumped in to provide a new source of demand.
另一个原因是奢侈品行业正面临压力,要求他们有所作为(任何行动),说服持怀疑态度的投资者:该行业能够继续壮大,因为目前它似乎正处于一个拐点。在2007年至2008年全球金融危机之前的10年里,西方富有消费者在信贷热潮期间大量买入奢侈品。后来,当经济放缓出现时,中国、俄罗斯和巴西等国现金充沛的消费者进入市场,带来新的需求来源。
Now those emerging market countries are in the doldrums, and an anti-corruption drive in China has halted jewellery sales. Meanwhile, demand in Europe remains3 weak, and even in the US, which is supposed to be recovering, the picture is far from buoyant. Little wonder, then, that the share price of Tiffany (like many luxury goods companies) has tumbled by almost one-third in the past year.
如今,这些新兴市场国家正处于低潮,同时中国的反腐运动遏制了珠宝销售。与此同时,欧洲需求仍然疲弱,甚至在理应处于复苏阶段的美国,前景也远非光明。难怪过去一年蒂芙尼的股价(与很多奢侈品公司一样)下挫近三分之一。
People such as Cumenal argue that this partly reflects the vagaries4 of the business cycle. But what is really interesting for sociologists and anthropologists — albeit5 more worrying for those luxury executives — is that consumer habits in the west could be undergoing an even bigger structural6 change. In the 20th century, it was taken for granted that when rich people wanted to “enjoy” their wealth and display status, they acquired expensive goods such as houses, cars, art — and diamonds. But according to Sarah Quinlan, a MasterCard executive who analyses vast reams of spending data each month, there has recently been a shift in terms of how wealthy and not-so-wealthy people are spending money.
科莫纳尔等人认为,这在一定程度上反映出商业周期的变幻莫测。但对于社会学家和人类学家而言,真正有趣(不过对于那些奢侈品高管而言这点更令人担忧)的一点在于,西方的消费习惯可能在经历更重大的结构性变革。在20世纪,人们想当然地认为,当富人希望“享受”他们的财富并炫耀其地位时,他们会购买昂贵商品,例如房产、汽车、艺术品和钻石。但据万事达(MasterCard)高管、每月分析大量消费数据的萨拉?昆兰(Sarah Quinlan)称,富人以及不那么富有的人士的消费方式近年出现了变化。
These days, overall consumer spending is growing (albeit more among the rich than the poor). This growth is occurring almost entirely7 in services such as restaurants, hotels, travel and holidays, not just in the middle market but in the luxury sector too. “One thing that comes out of these great recessions is that we like our friends and families again — we prize spending time with them,” Quinlan says. “The majority of [the growth] in spending is going to travel and leisure, not goods.” Or, as a report by Deloitte consultants8 notes: “All consumers, but especially millennials, value experiences?.?.?.?spend by people travelling accounts for 40 per cent of the personal luxury markets.”
如今,整体消费支出在增长(尽管富人消费增幅超过穷人)。这种增长几乎全部出现在餐厅、酒店、旅游和度假等服务业方面,不仅仅在中档市场,在高端市场也是如此。“近年的大衰退带来一个现象,那就是我们再次爱我们的朋友和家人,珍惜与他们一起的时光,”昆兰表示,“大部分消费(增长)来自旅游和休闲,而非商品。”或者,正如德勤(Deloitte)咨询顾问们撰写的报告所指出的那样,“所有的消费者,特别是千禧一代,重视体验……旅游消费占个人奢侈品市场的40%。”
According to Quinlan, this shift can be explained by changes in lifestyles and values: today’s millennials often live in cities, not suburbs, so have less physical space in which to store “stuff”; they also prize concepts such as “sustainability” and “community”.
据昆兰称,生活方式和价值观的变化能够解释这种变化:如今的千禧一代往往生活在城市,而非郊区,因此没有那么多可以存储“东西”的物理空间;他们还重视“可持续发展”和“社区”等概念。
?.?.?.?
……
I suspect there is another factor too: in the cyber age, physical goods simply do not feel very “exclusive” any more. Think once again about those diamonds. Fifty years ago, a scruffy9 teenager couldn’t wander into a jewellery store and try on a diamond ring; indeed, 100 years ago, poor people barely knew what the rich were wearing. But the internet has democratised the view: anyone can now “see” luxury goods and buy them online.
我认为还有一个因素:在网络时代,实物商品不再让人感觉非常“专属”。再想想那些钻石吧。50年前,一个衣衫不整的年轻人是无法逛珠宝店和试戴钻石戒指的;的确,100年前,穷人根本不知道富人穿什么。但互联网拓宽了每个人的视野:任何人现在都能“亲眼见到”奢侈品并在线购买。
What remains more exclusive are “experiences”, precisely10 because these cannot be commoditised online. One of the most powerful forms of conspicuous11 consumption today is not the accumulation of goods but the accumulation of memories — and stories. These are precious because they cannot be replicated12.
仍然比较专属的是“体验”,这恰恰是因为这些无法在网上商品化。如今,最强有力的炫耀性消费形式之一不是商品的累积,而是回忆(和故事)的累积。它们之所以珍贵是因为它们无法被复制。
That does not mean that people will stop buying diamonds. But it does mean that luxury goods companies are being advised to mix experiences with goods to create prestige. Don’t just put diamonds on Snapchat; offer rich clients the chance to meet the master craftsman13 too.
这并不意味着人们不会再购买钻石。但它确实意味着奢侈品公司正被建议将体验与商品混合在一起来创建显赫声望。不要只是在Snapchat上晒钻石了;还要向富有客户提供与手工艺大师见面的机会。
To put it another way, the more that our lives are hijacked14 by robots and cyber links, the more valuable the individual — human — touch starts to become. It is a striking reminder15 of just how arbitrary our ideas of “value” — and luxury — really are. And perhaps a reason for cheer.
换句话说,我们的生活被机器人和网络链接操纵得越多,个人(人类)风格也就开始变得越重要。这有力地提醒我们,我们对于“价值”(和奢侈品)的看法实际上是多么武断。或许这是一个值得拍手称快的理由。

点击收听单词发音收听单词发音  

1 sector yjczYn     
n.部门,部分;防御地段,防区;扇形
参考例句:
  • The export sector will aid the economic recovery. 出口产业将促进经济复苏。
  • The enemy have attacked the British sector.敌人已进攻英国防区。
2 investors dffc64354445b947454450e472276b99     
n.投资者,出资者( investor的名词复数 )
参考例句:
  • a con man who bilked investors out of millions of dollars 诈取投资者几百万元的骗子
  • a cash bonanza for investors 投资者的赚钱机会
3 remains 1kMzTy     
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹
参考例句:
  • He ate the remains of food hungrily.他狼吞虎咽地吃剩余的食物。
  • The remains of the meal were fed to the dog.残羹剩饭喂狗了。
4 vagaries 594130203d5d42a756196aa8975299ad     
n.奇想( vagary的名词复数 );异想天开;异常行为;难以预测的情况
参考例句:
  • The vagaries of fortune are indeed curious.\" 命运的变化莫测真是不可思议。” 来自英汉文学 - 嘉莉妹妹
  • The vagaries of inclement weather conditions are avoided to a certain extent. 可以在一定程度上避免变化莫测的恶劣气候影响。 来自辞典例句
5 albeit axiz0     
conj.即使;纵使;虽然
参考例句:
  • Albeit fictional,she seemed to have resolved the problem.虽然是虚构的,但是在她看来好象是解决了问题。
  • Albeit he has failed twice,he is not discouraged.虽然失败了两次,但他并没有气馁。
6 structural itXw5     
adj.构造的,组织的,建筑(用)的
参考例句:
  • The storm caused no structural damage.风暴没有造成建筑结构方面的破坏。
  • The North American continent is made up of three great structural entities.北美大陆是由三个构造单元组成的。
7 entirely entirely     
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地
参考例句:
  • The fire was entirely caused by their neglect of duty. 那场火灾完全是由于他们失职而引起的。
  • His life was entirely given up to the educational work. 他的一生统统献给了教育工作。
8 consultants c6fbb5ca6219111731f9c4c4d2675810     
顾问( consultant的名词复数 ); 高级顾问医生,会诊医生
参考例句:
  • a firm of management consultants 管理咨询公司
  • There're many consultants in hospital. 医院里有很多会诊医生。
9 scruffy YsWyG     
adj.肮脏的,不洁的
参考例句:
  • Despite her scruffy clothes,there was an air of sophistication about her.尽管她衣衫褴褛,但神态老练世故。
  • His scruffy appearance does not reflect his character.他邋遢的外表并不反映他的性格。
10 precisely zlWzUb     
adv.恰好,正好,精确地,细致地
参考例句:
  • It's precisely that sort of slick sales-talk that I mistrust.我不相信的正是那种油腔滑调的推销宣传。
  • The man adjusted very precisely.那个人调得很准。
11 conspicuous spszE     
adj.明眼的,惹人注目的;炫耀的,摆阔气的
参考例句:
  • It is conspicuous that smoking is harmful to health.很明显,抽烟对健康有害。
  • Its colouring makes it highly conspicuous.它的色彩使它非常惹人注目。
12 replicated 08069c56938bbf6ddcc01ee2fd848af5     
复制( replicate的过去式和过去分词 ); 重复; 再造; 再生
参考例句:
  • Later outplant the seedlings in a replicated permanent test plantation. 以后苗木出圃栽植成重复的永久性试验林。
  • The phage has replicated and the donor cells have lysed. 噬菌体已复制和给体细胞已发生裂解。
13 craftsman ozyxB     
n.技工,精于一门工艺的匠人
参考例句:
  • A cabinet maker must be a master craftsman.家具木工必须是技艺高超的手艺人。
  • The craftsman is working up the mass of clay into a toy figure.艺人把一团泥捏成玩具形状。
14 hijacked 54f3e68c506e45e75f9a155a27738c2f     
劫持( hijack的过去式和过去分词 ); 绑架; 拦路抢劫; 操纵(会议等,以推销自己的意图)
参考例句:
  • The plane was hijacked by two armed men on a flight from London to Rome. 飞机在从伦敦飞往罗马途中遭到两名持械男子劫持。
  • The plane was hijacked soon after it took off. 那架飞机起飞后不久被劫持了。
15 reminder WkzzTb     
n.提醒物,纪念品;暗示,提示
参考例句:
  • I have had another reminder from the library.我又收到图书馆的催还单。
  • It always took a final reminder to get her to pay her share of the rent.总是得发给她一份最后催缴通知,她才付应该交的房租。
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